Western Uganda Guide




Amabere Caves

The Amabere Caves, also known as the Ga Nyina Mwiru Caves and sometimes the Nyakasura Caves given their location at Nyakasura Falls, are located some five miles from Fort Portal on the Bundibugyo Road. These are not typical cavern systems formed by underground rivers but rather a series of impressive rock shelters and overhangs, characterized by spectacular stalactites and stalagmites.

The geological process involves the slow dissolution of limestone rock by water, which then drips from the cave ceiling, depositing calcite. Over vast stretches of time, this creates the icicle-like stalactites hanging downwards and the cone-shaped stalagmites building upwards from the cave floor. The Amabere Caves are particularly striking due to the sheer number and intricate patterns of these formations.

The constant drip, drip, drip of water creates a living, evolving landscape, with some formations appearing to "melt" or flow, giving them an almost organic, breast-like appearance that heavily influenced the local legends. The surrounding area, rich in volcanic activity and limestone deposits, provided the perfect conditions for these unique structures to develop, crafting a natural wonder that stands as a silent monument to geological time. The air within the caves carries a damp, earthy scent, and the cool temperature provides a welcome respite from the equatorial sun, enhancing the sense of stepping into another world.

The name Amabere Ga Nyina Mwiru translates as "Breasts of Nyina Mwiru" with Nyina Mwiru being the beautiful daughter of a local usurper King Bukuku of the ancient Batembuzi Dynasty, who ruled over the kingdom of Tooro. According to legend, King Bukuku, a powerful but feared ruler, received a prophecy that his daughter would one day marry and bear a son who would usurp his throne. To prevent this ill-fated prophecy from coming true, the king took drastic measures. He imprisoned Nyina Mwiru and, in a fit of rage and desperation, ordered her breasts to be cut off, believing that this would make her undesirable and prevent her from ever bearing children. The king then threw her into what are now known as the Ambarere caves, hoping she would perish and his line would remain secure.

This rather drastic plan failed, and Nyina Mwiru miraculously survived. She eventually escaped, and later became pregnant to Isaza, who many believed with the rightful king of the Batembuzi, bearing a son they named Ndahura. Unable to breastfeed the infant herself, she used what looked like milk dripping from the stalactites, which appeared milky because of its calcium content. The prophecy was fulfilled when Ndahura grew up to become a mighty king, eventually overthrowing his grandfather, King Bukuku, and establishing a new dynasty which went on to form one of the great empires of the Great Lakes area of Africa. Apparently. Today, the stalactites within the caves, perpetually dripping with mineral-rich water, are still believed by the local Batoro people to be the very breasts of Princess Nyina Mwiru, and the milky white fluid that drips from them is said to be her enduring breast milk, turning a geological marvel into a sacred site steeped in royal history and tragic love.

 
 
 
 
 
 

Amabere Caves

Amabere Caves

Amabere Caves

Amabere Caves

 


Tooro Palace

Tooro Palace

The Tooro Royal Palace is home to the Omukama, king of one of the four traditional kingdoms of Uganda.
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Amabere Caves Waterfall

Amabere Caves Fort Portal

Beyond the legend of Princess Nyina Mwiru, the history of the Amabere Caves extends into the broader narrative of the local communities. For generations, the caves have not merely been a geological curiosity but a place of refuge, worship, and cultural significance for the Batoro people. Oral traditions speak of the caves being used as a sanctuary during times of war or tribal conflict, offering shelter and safety to communities under threat. It is also believed that the site held spiritual importance, serving as a place for rituals, offerings, and consultations with ancestors or spirits, due to its mysterious and awe-inspiring nature. The consistent flow of water, tied to the legend of Nyina Mwiru's milk, may have also rendered the site sacred, associated with fertility, sustenance, and the enduring power of life. While extensive archaeological digs are limited, the sheer depth of the oral tradition surrounding the caves points to their enduring presence in the collective memory and historical consciousness of the indigenous people, making them a living archive of their past.

Today, the site is well-managed, with local guides readily available to lead visitors to the caves and narrate the intricate legend of Nyina Mwiru, enriching the experience with local insights and storytelling. The walk to the caves is an adventure in itself, often across a wet and slippery moss-covered path, past small homesteads, and through tropical foliage for er, all of three minutes walk. Given recent publicity, the entrance fees to the "cave" have recently risen sharply, and non-locals also pay a premium. It's still cheap, though, and the fee includes the guide helping you explore the various chambers of the Amabere Caves, marvel at the stalactites and stalagmites, and feel the cool, damp air that defines the cave environment. The guides are instrumental in pointing out specific formations that align with parts of the legend, such as the supposed "seats" of the kings or the "milk" flowing from the "breasts."

Adding to the allure of the Amabere Caves are the breathtaking waterfalls located in the immediate vicinity. The Nyakasura and Kisomoro waterfalls, fed by the same underground springs and rivers that contribute to the cave's ecosystem, plunge dramatically into pools below, creating a serene and picturesque backdrop. The sound of rushing water, combined with the gentle drip within the caves, creates a symphony of natural sounds that enhances the spiritual and tranquil atmosphere of the entire site. Visitors can stand beneath the spray of the waterfalls, cross rustic bridges, and soak in the raw, untamed beauty of the Ugandan landscape or even swim in the small pool itself, even though it's icy cold and you may end up surrounded by colobus monkeys! Also take in a visit to the marking of a large footprint in the area believed to belong to one of the last Batembuzi dynasty people who were giants. Again, apparently! The entire experience is an immersive blend of natural beauty, historical depth, and mythical wonder, providing a comprehensive understanding of the region's rich heritage.

There is also a nearby campsite and Kibale National Park is just 32km away if you're in the area (as are students at nearby Nyakasura College which was founded by a Scot and the students still wear kilts! for their uniform.)

 
 


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